The coastal town of Essaouira probably dates back to prehistoric times, due to its sheltered waters, and over many centuries, it was a trade center for Phoenicians, Amazighs, Greeks and Romans. In 1506 the Portuguese seized the prized port and built a fortress, but it was abandoned soon after. The present city was built in the 18th century by Mohammed III who was partially successful in reestablishing Moroccan sovereignty of its coastline (he was also the first to recognize the United States as an independent nation in 1777).
In addition to remaining a very active fishing port, Essaouira is now a cultural nucleus of traditional crafts, music, and a unique school of primitive painting. Every year, the town hosts the Gnaoua music festival, which invites musicians from all over the world to perform a variety of styles and explore new avenues of fusion. We stayed in a small Riad (guest house) on a narrow alley within the medina, and would awake each morning to the frenzied sound of seagulls. The town is populated by legions of healthy cats and kittens, and thanks to a successful neutering program, the feline population is in the right proportion to the supply of fish scraps, and all appear well-fed. Even in July, the steady Atlantic breeze warrants a light jacket in the morning and evening.
Every afternoon, locals migrate to the docks to purchase fish right off the boats. Some of the Essaouira's painters are also fishermen.. or one could say the reverse!
One of the many venerable portals.
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